RABBITS

» Rabbit Nutrition

Introduction      

Rabbits are becoming an increasingly popular house pet. Additionally, they are a popular 4-H animal. There is a large body of information available on rabbits in regards to housing, food requirements, and disease. Much of this information is courtesy of the laboratory animal discipline, and commercial rabbitries. Additionally, there are multiple active pet groups, the most prominent of them the House Rabbit Society. There are 50 breeds recognized by the American Rabbit Breeders Association. Following are some qualities and fun facts regarding rabbits:

• Most are gentle, docile, and quiet, although there are certainly exceptions to this rule. There are occasionally "attack rabbits" and very nervous, high-strung rabbits. Rabbits may warn the human (or nonhuman) intruder with a foot thump. Foot thumps are also used to express irritation.

• May be trained to a litterbox; use nontoxic and digestible filler (no corncob, walnut shell, clay, or shavings). Fecal pellets may be easily vacuumed.

• Produce "night feces" which is eaten early in the morning (cecotrophs, coprophagy). The cecotrophs are not a waste product and are essential in the digestive process.  The cecotrophs are often taken directly from the anus. Most owners are not aware that their rabbits are engaging in this behavior.

• Cool weather animals and overheat easily. Rabbits may also stress easily, and in an already compromised animal this could spell death.

• Need to be brushed frequently (some breeds require more upkeep than others).

• All teeth are open-rooted and grow continuously. There are six incisors.

• Lifespan = 6 - 10 years, depending upon the breed.

• Temperature = 100 - 104 F (excitement)

• Heart rate = 200 beats per minute on average
• Respirations = 35 - 60 respirations per minute
• Sexual maturity at 4 - 6 months of age, with smaller rabbits maturing at the early end. Gestation is 30 - 32 days.
• Nonbreeding does should be spayed due to a high incidence of uterine adenocarcinoma.

Husbandry

Diet/dietary requirements

Rabbits are herbivores and nibblers as well. They do not see the area below the mouth, and so they rely on smell and tactile information from the whiskers of the and the cleft in the upper lip. 

• Energy requirements determine food intake for the rabbit; however other factors do come into play.  Food intake decreases with a rise in environmental temperature above the preferred optimal temperature of 62 F. There is an increase in cecotrophy with a decrease in dietary energy intake (cecotrophy is dependent upon dietary protein and fiber; increasing if the diet contains less protein or more fiber).
• The gastrointestinal tract is very intricate and complex. It is dependent upon bacteria and can easily be upset by sudden changes in dietary intake. The GI tract does not process CHO, sugars, or fats well. Diets high in fiber have been shown to be effective against enteritis; fiber stimulates ceco-colic motility, whereas low fiber diets cause cecal-colonic hypomotility, ultimately changing the microflora. High fiber diets also have lower levels of CHO, meaning less sugars/glucose. For a more thorough overview/discussion, see The Veterinary Clinics of North America, Exotic Animal Practice, Husbandry and Nutrition, January 1999.
• Recommended foods: unlimited access to grass/timothy hay, one cup per 5 pounds of body weight of dark leafy green vegetables, and a maximum of one cup high fiber (> 18%) per five pounds of body weight. Some authors recommend 1/8 - 1/4 cup pellets per 5 pounds of body weight. However, rabbits do very well without pellets.
• For more in-depth information on dietary requirements, click on the following link: rabbit nutrition

Housing/Environment

• Need to be caged when not supervised; solid flooring is preferable, as is a roomy cage with space for a litterbox and some toys.
• 14 gauge wire for cash with mesh no greater than 1 X 2.5 cm.
• Litter - use recoiled newspaper pellets or shred, or pelleted grass products; do not use corncob, walnut shell, or clay.
• Toys may include balls and pieces of untreated hardwood.
• Provide a nest/sleeping box with hay or carpet (if they don't eat the box).
• Rabbit-proof the entire house. For instance, remove electrical cords and houseplants from the rabbit's reach. Protect furniture/legs.
• Proper sanitation with frequent cleaning of environment is important.
• If outdoors, protect from elements such as extreme temperature fluctuations, other animals, etc.

Health Care

• Annual physical exam with a review of diet and environment.
• Fecal exam.
• Complete oral exam (needs to be performed under sedation or anesthesia).
• Spay females before 2 years of age (ideally between 6 - 12 months of age).  Females will likely will develop uterine adenocarcinoma if left intact.
• Neutering is optional. Some bucks develop inappropriate (to humans) behavior with the advent of sexual maturity, and others may become downright nasty. However, some exhibit no drastic behaviors and are left intact.
• Baseline bloodwork, urinalysis, and radiographs.
• Recommend initial Pastuerella and Encephalitozoon serology testing when a new rabbit is brought into the home. Quarantine from other rabbits until test results are known.
• Toenail trims should be performed periodically, as needed.

Links

www.aemv.org (association of exotic mammal veterinarians)
www.rabbit.org
www.oxbowhay.com